I am working through the various pros & cons to reduce outside train sound getting through a window and could use some help.
My current preference is an exterior flush-mount 1/4″ laminated storm window. For water drainage and condensation control, the installation requires sitting the bottom of the window on the sill with no blind stop or caulking. In my case , the storm window would rest on a sloped brick sill.
If a properly installed laminated panel would get me to say an OITC=30, about how much of that value would be lost due to having that small gap without the benefit of a blind stop and caulking? If loss is significant, I would look into either a surface mount storm window that overlaps the rough opening in the brick wall or I would put together an interior window plug/panel. Thanks for any insights
PQ in east TN
I plan on trying an exterior storm even though sound might go under/through the bottom aluminum storm window frame.
If I find flanking after the manufacturer recommended install, I could still put in sound blocking material along the bottom of the storm window frame as long as it can drain. It will be a while until I get back to this effort – please add any tips to help with the laminated storm window install to minimize sound transmission.
I am less inclined to start with an interior storm window since I wouldn’t get a wide air gap between panes. A wide air gap between panes (among other factors) reduces low frequency sound transmission.
April 6, 2017